Dark spring/summer fashion inspiration: black & pastels.

I get emails everynow and again with requests to do do articles about gothic fashion tips for the Summer. Well, I have decided to start a new "series" covering the subject.
This post is about black & pastels. We had a short summery phase here in North England, a sneak preview of what to expect in the following months prior to returning back to the dark days of Winter (which is fine, nothing to worry about. It still is skiing season, you know?)

I've always been an advocate for pastels (I have written posts about it before), specially if they are skintone shades or ivory/cream. They bring out the best of our skinshades and because they are so light, they are easy to combine with other shades/colours and that makes them a perfect alternative to the "common" white to use as a blank colour to start an outfit with. Some people are a bit uneasy with the black&white combo for fear of ending up with a "waitress" look.

Despite their lightness, pastels work beautifully with black, as proven by the pic below, creating a gorgeous look that not always has to be "romantic" or "sissy". You can thoughen it up with dramatic accessories or textures like velvet or leather.

I love this look:
Black blazer/jacket/coat in wool or velvet!
A romantic or sleek fitted dress in skintone/pastel shade
black shoe/boots. Love that chunky heel. Much heavier than stiletto but so much more stable and therefore comfortable to walk with.

What do you think? Would you wear pastels?

New items on the website: Black long sleeved lace gown

I can't remember if I mentioned here about the photoshoot I had recently (I definetely did on my facebook page, if you don't follow me, please, do ;)
This is one of the pics of that photoshoot (more pics coming soon) and I designed this gorgeous gown just before the shoot so I wanted it to be included. I think it will be a gorgeous piece for any smart occasions, including weddings. It is sooo darkly elegant, it is sure to be a staple piece in Morticia's black wardrobe. What do you think?

The stunning model is Whiskey Raven and the photographer is the talented Glo Mason from InaGlo Photography. (Links to their facebook pages are on their names).

Click here to see more pics and info on my website: http://www.theblackwardrobe.com/Shop/product.php/76/black_long_sleeved_lace_gown

Fashion inspiration: Viktor & Rolf, Autumn/Winter 2012-13

As I am in full swing developing my Spring/Summer collection and sewing like mad I got distracted looking at the dark beauties we may expect wearing next Winter. I must say, I'm excited. Lots of Dark Dark pieces! (and I'm not talking about plain black, I'm talking about opulent velvet and decadent gothic symbols as well as distressed textures and luxurious brocades and dramatic laces). I'm drooling just thinking of it. If you add Vintage to the mix, then you have grabbed all my attention, and that's what Viktor and Rolf's next Winter collection has done: a very dark glamorous collection depicting languid femme fatales dressed in misterious black outfits, trimmed with luxurious fur and vintage-style ruffles and tassels.

Love the description given on the Fashion Telegraph's website:
"Soft, feminine, and romantic - with a little bit of mystery. Luke Leitch on Viktor & Rolf's chic moonlight-bathe, film-noirish collection."

"The models had Rita Hayworth waves, almost consumptive pallors and the dark berry lips that have all been recurring themes in the film noir-tinted styling so popular this season."

Link to the article: http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/Article/TMG9120979/754/Paris-Fashion-Week-Viktor-and-Rolf-autumnwinter-2012.html

Big pics taken from here: http://cltreanor.blogspot.com/2012/03/viktor-rolf-fall-2012.html

Gareth Pugh for MAC

If you are into Goth and never heard of Gareth Pugh you should really check him out. He is a Goth, no doubt about it. His fashion is always dark and very alternative. I would put him in the same group as Ann Demeleumeester, the old McQueen and Riccardo Tisci. They are all dark romantics and their clothes (often black) reflect that.
If you are, like me, a fan of mr. Pugh then you would recognize his style in the make up line he has created for MAC.  It is very dark, metallic, cold colours and the packaging is very minimal, dark (again) and geometrical. Quite ambiguous actually (not feminine at all but yet not masculine).

“With a collection that goes from strong, deep and mysterious to light, fragile, and ethereal, I think we’ve created a truly versatile collection that hopefully you’ll be inspired by and want to wear.” (words of Gareth Pugh).

The designer was inspired by everything from a hematite rock to butterfly wings. And those angular lashes are the result of him snipping away at a bunch of fake lashes that MAC sent him with the goal of making them non-lash-shaped. (text from here)

 What do you think?

Bonnie Wright on Haute Muse

I found this picture on a mag ages ago and forgot to scan it, till I found it here (thanks Dustjacket attic!). I don't know who she is but here is a tip: any Harry Potter fans out there would have recognized her straight away.

I suddenly became a Goth.....part 6

Here we go again, I always think this feature doesn't have a future but you always find someone who at some point in their lives, decide to embrace the beauty of Darkness, even if it is just for a short (very short) period of their lives. The last victim of this episode is Taylor Momsen. I didn't have a clue who this girl was till I saw pictures of her all over the net recently.
It turns out she is on Gossip Girl (I only watch a couple of episodes of those TV series and this girl's face still doesn't ring a bell to me...) Anyway, I can see and smell that this is another case of youngster rebelling against her -very early from nappies day- day-life responsibilities. Seeking a very extreme way of exploring her persona, style and, I might guess, freedom, before she hits 25 and decides what to do with her life.


Some of her style attempts are better than others, as you can see the first picture couldn't scream more teenager even if she tried (although I love that deep-red lipstick!). The other two looks are more sophisticated, this second picture reminds of Mary-kate Olsen, it is very much of her romantic style.












The third picture is my definetely favourite, key pieces to watch here that I love:

A/flattering lace dress showing figure and bust. Over knee length (how elegant and grown-up)

B/Glamourous bohemian, almost distressed but still groomed, up-do. (Think of Tippy Heddren just after being attacked by those birds ;)

C/Vamp but understated make-up: soft smokey eyes and hard deep-red lipstick, very fair foundation but without looking too artificially pale, as she decided to use flour.

What do you think?

Style icons: Ronit Elkabetz (who?)

I came across this lady through the House of Harps blog. Her style is amazing, a perfect mix of Vintage and Dark. Her romantic hairdo is a modern reminiscent of the 1900s edwardian style up-dos.
Her make-up is subtle, understated but still dramatic (take note of the smokey eye make-up in brown and purple shadows)
I had never heard of her before, neither had you (I presume)...

Check out the link for more pics:
http://houseofharps.blogspot.com/2010/06/lady-you-look-fab-special-edition-ronit.html

Fashion inspiration: Interview mag, June-July issue

Very rarely I find inspiring editorials among the summer issues. Suddenly, everything is just pastels, pinks and bright/neon shades that could easily blind you if you are not careful!
Don't get me wrong, I like pastels and some bright but strong colours such as deep red (my favourite!), deep blues and greens but I am still fond of my black, even in the summer.
This editorial is very interesting, it has all the elements I like: gothic, a bit of fetishism (but not to the point of being pornographic and therefore, might get the ban from Blogger) and with a vintage twist.
It features an unrecognisable Megan Fox as a lady Vamp who is doing dirty tricks to her clone number #2, who is a mannequin.

I love the stylism, is quite summery - if we ignore the fur, unless you are living in Scotland or Iceland - the bob is stylish, simple but still keeps the vintage flair.
The make-up is beautiful, although I think it would only work if you are extremely pale. Otherwise, forget about achieving that soft gothic flair with a golden sun-tanned skin-tone. It just wouldn't work. But hey, if you think otherwise, comments are welcome. I do like debates...;)


Here is the link to the full editorial:
http://www.fashionising.com/pictures/p--Interview-magazine-June-July-2010-6759-101620.html

Givenchy haute couture summer 2010

The great Ricardo Tisci has created another collection that fulfills any Goth's dream. Beautiful phantasmagorical languid silouettes, decorated with black embellished fabrics, red lips and dramatic eye shadows contrasting against a corpse-like pale skin. Gloom never dies!
Obviously, this collection is haute couture. The pret-a-porter collection is a completely different story...
You can check it out on the website (www.givenchy.com)

Gothic Hairstyles: Could you pull off the Frankenstein's bride look?

I have been thinking about this, for ages. My mum keeps insisting in having a white lock on her sleek raven black hair. She is not a goth, her skin is not pale but olive and she doesn't wear black clothes...never! She is the typical latina who loves very! bright colours (such as lime green or bright orange) PUaghh..!. Umm.....I am not convinced. I don't know about her but what I know is that is a look that is hard to make work and it's high maintenance but actually, I reckon some people could pull it off, if:
1/ You are young, look young or even have a "young attitude"; in other words, if the white lock starts to look like you are not bother in covering your grey hair anymore, then it loses all its glamour. (Sorry, mum, I have decided it is going to be a "no").
2/I suspect it only goes with raven black hair, not with any other lighter shades or the contrast will lose its glory, although it would be interesting on deep red hair, too! (Remember Geri Halliwell from Spice Girls?).
3/I am not sure about the skintone, but I still think it looks best with fair skin colour although I have to tell you that one of my examples, Metal Sanaz (4th pic) looks great with it.
4/ It doesn't have to be platinum/white a la Daphne Guinness, I have noticed lots of rockabilly girls, such as Missy Malone (3rd pic) are adopting a more golden shade which I really like!

Be witching!

Who said a gorgeous black gown cannot be worn for everyday? I just love! this look.
What a gorgeous set. It is so dramatic but not theatrical. Perfect for everyday.
http://www.polyvore.com/bewitching/set?.mid=embed&id=6993312

Bewitching by Stormybubbles featuring Irregular Choice shoes

Gothic hairstyles, does curly hair need to be dark?

A comment by one of my readers, Sexy Sadie, made me think. In response to the post Gothic hairstyles, can curly hair look good with your gothic outfit? She commented: "I think curly hair can be gothic, but it has to be dark hair".

Well, not necessarily. As with any other "look", it is the combination of elements (makeup, hair, accessories, clothing -including colours, textures and shapes-) what defines the overlook of it or the "theme". Someone completely dressed in black doesn't always look "gothic", so curly or wavy hair doesn't always need to have that romantic and sweet flair into it either....

Obviously, black or dark colour hair would make the overall dramatic effect come across easier, especially to someone who has a very sterotypical view about Gothic fashion, however, I still believe and I have already expressed this in my post, black raven hair (straight!) it can be too tiring!!!

As another reader pointed out, the character of Lestat the Vampire (played by Tom Cruise) is blonde and with curly hair. Does that make him look less "gothic" or sinister?

Take as an example the first picture, is from Aquascutum ( a fashion label with no relation or interest whatsover into dark or gothic themes). The model looks very dramatic. Why?
Well defined eyes in a very dark and smokey dark eye-shadow, sharp wine coloured lips, well defined figure thanks to a very beautifully tailored outfit, in this case a coat. The hair is curly! And is not either black raven or vamp red, is a brown golden dark colour and she still looks beautifully dramatic!

Let's take another example: bright blonde hair. The most difficult case, in my opinion.
Here is a picture of Jean Paul Gaultier's Winter collection for 2006. It is very phantasmagoric, I have to say, but I like because they didn't stick into black hair in order to create that romantic dark look. There is no need to say that it works because of the make-up and the clothes!

I suddenly became a Goth.....part 5

Remember my "suddenly became a Goth" series"? Well, I didn't know I would find more "chapters" to add to the series :)
I don't really know if this chapter is legitimate but I just can't help thinking that the new look is dark enough to fall into not the proper goth but at least "dark" category.

I-ve always been a fan of Scarlett Johansson-s look. I love retro (1930s-1940s plus victoriana) and her looks are never too much colorful, au contraire, she usually plays with pastels (that-s why I-m not a big fan of the 50s although I can say that I still like it...).
Miss Johansson has paired her stylist (whoever he/she is, is doing a very good job) with D&G and you can see the result: strange, well, quite unusual. It is femenine, it is glamorous, it is rich and voluptous but very very dark indeed.
Why did this happen to....her?
Well, Gothic or dark will still be a big thing for next winter (due to the gloomy economical situation) but also retro, 1930s retro, to be precise due to the similiarities of this recession with the one from 1929. So I think that-s why miss Johansson's stylist has decided to embrace the dark side of retro.

You might still be wondering why Johansson looks "dark"? Well, here are some clues:

Firstly, the hair: that beautiful ginger/auburny colour is very very dramatic enough. It is one of the right shades to emphasize the already pale skin and accentuate her facial features. (Remember my post: Gothic make-up tips: an alternative to raven-black hair?). IF you have pale skin, any dark shade of hair will do the same job so, there is no need to go the raven hair to get that goth look.

Secondly, the makeup: those feline eyes, those bright red lips that look as she just had a glass of blood....It is retro makeup indeed. However, combining retro make-up plus pale skin tend to result to be a certain look:VAMP. And what is a vamp? A mix between a dominatrix and a vampire, a femme fatale! Which is the whole concept behind the female goth look.

Thirdly and last: black lace! There no need to say more. She couldn't have gone any more stereotypical. That stunning hugging figure outfit it only helps her to look even more vamp than what she already looks.
And she looks gorgeous....

Are you up for the Rock-Tomboy look or the diva look? PART 2

As I said in the part 1 of these mini-post/series, the Gothic trend has been segmented into two looks: Rock-Tomboy look and Diva Look.

I´m going to explain what the Diva look is about, this season.

Unlike the Rock look, the Diva look is about sofistication, feminity and glamour. There´s no better fabric that represents all those atributes than Lace. Yes! Lace, lace, lace! It´s usually worn as an evening fabric but all those Goths or Goth-lovers out there know that it can be a gorgeous fabric for day-life as well! (Click on the "gothic fashion tips" tag, for inspiration and ideas).

The Gothic/Diva look is about going back to couture, well dressed and groomed look. There´s no space for any kind of androginity in here!

Well tailored looks that accentuate the feminine figure, very feminine and sensual fabrics (lace, silk, chiffon) mixed with wintery and structured fabrics such as tweed, tartan or wool mix. I personally LOVE! this look. It suits every single body shape, if you have the curves, they will be accentuated. If you don´t, they will be created by the mix of textures, fabrics and the volume of the siluettes.

One tip, if you really want to add an extra bit of drama to your look, wear lace tights.

They look amazing and I´ve seen very cheap ones, this season.

Are you up for the Rock-Tomboy look or the diva look? PART 1

Everybody agrees that the mainstream has decided to appropiate the goth look for itself, this winter. However, I´ve realized that the idea has been taking two different aesthetic paths, in the last weeks :

the Rock chic tomboy look (baggy tops, skinny long graceful legs) or the sleek super-femenine diva look (hour glass shape, elegant and groomed look, lots of lace. Very closed to the Cinema noir feel).

The first look is been seen on the Givenchy collection. As you can see on the pics, it has a very 80´s feel. It reminds me more of the New Romantic look than the Gothic: soft layers, ruffles, bows, black and cream pallette. There are some elements that I like and I dislike in this look.

I like it because it brings back one of the few beautiful things of the Eighties and adds some kind of interest and mix of textures to the outfit instead of keeping it just black. I like the detail of necklaces made of chains (something very "old", I know, but I hadn´t seen it for a long while) and I like the combo black-cream as an alternative option to the classical and sometimes, predictable, black and white.

What I don´t like of this look? You might have already guessed it. It´s not suitable for anyone who is under 180cms tall -6 foot high, for those british/american readers ;)- AND doesn´t have the legs for it. Otherwise, it would make you look like a shiny elephant. Or a cheap prostitute, from the Eighties....

Also, after coming to this initial and basic problem the next dilemma is:

How to wear it? Well, if you add to the "equation": leggings + shiny fabric. The solution is unpredictable.

I think that the trick is to wear it with something plain that doesn´t try to out-shine the already-shiny leggings. That means:
option A.
plain non-shiny top or shirt which can be monochrome or printed. It can be fitted (if you have the body for it) or baggy, which will cover your waist and bum (this silouette is ideal if you have the perfect legs but not so-perfect torax, yes, I mean the belly. The trick works, believe me.)

However, I have to say that this look is not suitable for people whose shoulders are wider than their hips because this look will accentuate them even more.

Option B. the risky one but the most gorgeous one! I would love to wear this shinny leggins with a gorgeous black lace top. It´s edgy, feminine and gothic! Obviously, it´s not suitable for everyone, again....
Here´s an example.

Gorgeous lace top, 65 pounds. Handmade by me, The Black Wardrobe. You can find it at the Rose And Anchor boutique, in Liverpool. (00 44) 0151 707 3590

Shinny skinny pants, 65 pounds from Topshop. (You can find more different ones and with prices which can be cheaper or more expensive, in other mainstream retailers)

Ankle lace boots. (These gorgeous pair is not from this season, sorry. Although, they´re very trendy at the minute and you can still find them in some shops).

Cinema noir with gothic overtones

You might have realized by now that I'm very very into cinema noir but also Gothic.

You mix them both and get a collection inspired by such a femenine dark thing like a black widow

http://the-black-wardrobe.blogspot.com/search/label/black%20widow%20collection

OR, you get this: the Valentino campaign from a winter ago (I think). You get what you expect here: clever play of dark and shadows (a very characteristic feature of cinema noir), pale skin, bright red lips and very feminine but quite agressive females. They look like vampires! I´m particularly in love with the model of the second picture, look how cristaline her eyes are, she looks like a corpse.

Staples....Glamourous fetiche

I really like Viktor&Rolf, their collections are always classy, hiperfemenine but without getting to the borders of slut-ty edge (like Cavalli or Versace, as an example). It´s very difficult to create something that is wearable, femenine but at the same time, dramatic and theatrical and that´s something Goth fashion has yet to explore.

The last collection of these two dutch genius is called "No". Their key piece is the grey coat with a huge "No" formed on to the fabric, obviously, I´ve decided not to post it on this blog because that coat's pic is everywhere!

What really grabbed my attention, was a subtle "fetiche" detail that is adorning all seams: staples.
Something cheap, not beautiful, vulgar. Something you see in Home Bargains for about a £1 and in your office, every single day, in front of you....until you need them.
It seems an obvious alternative thing, however, I don't remember seeing it before. Except, in Batman....

As soon as I saw that corset with staples on it (second pic) it reminded me of Catwoman: hyper-feminine silouette, red wine lips, pallor, black smokey feline eyes and lots of character. Ironically, the collection is called "no" because the designers found it a sexy word/attitude. They worship a female figure that is strong, agressive but femenine and individual....like Catwoman! (I assume you got it but just to make sure, I mean Michelle Pfeiffer´s catwoman, not the other crappy one. What the hell where they thinking?)

I suddenly became a Goth.....part 3

Here´s the most surprising transformation so far: Peaches Geldof. Someone not related to Goth in any aspect whatsoever, so this might be the second and the last of her appeareances on this blog ever.

I would bet my arm that you must be wondering, what the hell dragged this woman to Goth or anything vaguely related to Dark fashion?!. Well, this little girl is going out with one of The Horrors. (Here´s a second example of "I-do-whatever-my-fella-is-doing").

Like Manson´s case, The Horrors have a classy and elegant gothic look, HOWEVER, their music -like Mr. Manson- IS NOT GOTHIC. People usually assume that your look will go along your work. It is not always the case.

As you can see in the pics, ms. Geldof has adopted a soft and dolly-type look which I really like as I´m tired of the Lolita look, sorry.

She´s kept her make-up down, with soft grey and pastel pinks (dark heavy make-up wouldn´t have suited her). But the most interesting bit of all -and that´s why she´s been featured on this blog- is because she hasn´t limited her wardrobe to just 100% black. She´s combined it with cream/beige (remember my tip?, pastel colours really accentuate your pallor in a sweet way), grey and my favourite, burgundy.

On top of that, she´s decided to dye her hair black or chestnut, which is a cliché but I still love it. Why? Because the cliché it would have been to straight down her hair raven-black-hair like some teenagers still do. Instead, she´s reshaped her dramatic now obscure hair with waves, which I think is sophisticated, glamourous and tones down the total look.